At the end of this year we are celebrating our 10 year anniversary!
With these two new LAB Series we are already kicking off the celebrations with the return of the Sub Second dial, and far-going, expressive patina in honour of Horlogerie Brut.
Instantly recognisable as a Holthinrichs LAB Series, both timepieces feature a distinctive copper oxide patina dial. This time, however, the designs incorporate our most challenging reliefs to date. We have taken the concept of optical layering and patination to an entirely new level.
The in-house manufacturing process starts with the domed shape crafted out of a solid piece of metal, with a powerful sunburst pattern and layers milled and laser-etched into the surface. The copper patina is then applied manually through a specific in-house manufacturing process that we refined and mastered since the launch of the RAW Ornament Bronze. The result is expressive in both color and texture, with a spread that is always unique due to the natural oxidation process.
The LAB Series features a titanium case with the thinnest possible lug structures, defying conventional design logic. This is made possible by pushing the limits of 3D metal printing technology. The design focuses on ergonomics: reduced weight for greater comfort, a curved case-back to improve wrist position and stability, and pronounced curved lugs to embrace the wrist more comfortably.
The case is crafted using high-tech selective laser melting, followed by precise milling and extensive hand-finishing. Each 3D print run is limited to 45 cases per build plate, taking up to 48 hours to complete. After, each case is individually aligned for machining and undergoes many hours of manual finishing in our atelier. This process enables structurally bold designs and contrasting surface finishes—combining raw 3D-printed textures with hand-refined details.
10 years ago, during my graduation project in Architecture, and after 4 years of designing and prototyping my first watch design, a very first client found me online and requested me to build one for his wedding.'. This watch would be the first production model of the at that time just finished prototype of the Ornament 1, world's first 3D printed stainless steel watch.
A timepiece powered by a Peseux 7001, with its recognisable sub-second layout. This special commission signified the beginning of Holthinrichs Watches.
5 years later we introduced the RAW Ornament Bronze, designed according to our concept of Horlogerie Brut, where textures, finishes and colours are directly derived from the manufacturing processes and pure materialistic properties. What remained was the recognisable sub-second register.
We took Horlogerie Brut to the highest level, introducing the notion of time and transiency into a physical design language. Aside from the fully bronze monocoque case, we also developed an exceptional copper-oxide dial, copper hands and even a copper plated movement with haute horlogerie finishing. It cannot be more romantic and interactive than a highly finished movement that actively changes appearance over time.
Fast forward to again five years later, in 2026, the team now consists of 16 people, and we celebrate our 10 years of existence at the end of this year. By now, we are lucky to have clients worldwide, attend international trade shows and are represented by a selection of global retailers. After two successful launches of our SIGNATURE LAB (Series 1 and Series 1.24) we are about to launch two new models in this experimental line. This time we pay tribute to our first timepiece from 10 years ago, the Ornament 1, and the timepiece that defined our design principles, the RAW Ornament Bronze. We present SIGNATURE LAB 1.S (sub-second) and SIGNATURE LAB 1.GMT. The latter, born from the need of a functionality we still missed during our travels and international calls, its GMT register taking our Breguet-inspired font from first introduced in the RAW Ornament Bronze.
Thanks to everyone for all the support over the years, and to the years to come!
- Michiel Holthinrichs
SIGNATURE LAB 1.S features perhaps the most expressive dial relief we have ever created. Deeply carved lines radiate outward from the sub-dial, strongly emphasising it within the design in an almost Art Deco stylistic manner. This dramatic pattern creates a lively visual effect: the deepest carvings hold the richest layer of azure-blue oxide patina, contrasting with the more brown-green nuances on the higher levels. The result is an unprecedented optical depth and a strong sense of three-dimensionality within the timepiece.
The dial of the SIGNATURE LAB 1.GMT introduces an even more elaborate and delicate design. It features a complex, multi-layered relief with a subtle projection of a globe emerging from the dial surface as an intermediate layer. The Earth is viewed from the North Pole in an azimuthal projection, naturally referencing the radial division of time zones originating from the Earth's rotational axis, and, in this dial, the position of the watch hands. Within our manufacturing process, the globe is hand-brushed using a micro-brush to selectively remove excess patina, resulting in a darker brown tone that contrasts with the background. The most pronounced layer, the GMT indicators, stands out through its Breguet-style design, brass color, and brushed finishing, creating a striking contrast with the layers beneath.
These new SIGNATURE LAB Series continue using the top grade Sellita SW300 series for reliability and slender dimensions. The highlight remains the unique patinated, hand-carved and heat-treated rotor we developed to mirror the spirit of the expressive patina dials. The tungsten weight is scraped and heat-treated to achieve beautifully subtle blue and purple tones.
Complementing the expressive design of our LAB Series, we've selected an evenly extravagant strap, and we love it! Together with our strap maker we selected a material from an Italian tannery that fully complements all the textures and liveliness of the watch itself. At first sight one might think it is some kind of reptile skin, however this material is sourced much more close by. Brushed, oiled and made by hand it even feels much softer. Ever heard of rooster feet leather? Simply unique and now a trademark of our LAB Series!
LAB Series 1.S |
LAB Series 1.GMT |
|
|---|---|---|
| Case | ||
| Material | Titanium grade 5 - 3D printed | |
| Finish | Selectively hand-finished brushing contrasted by raw & polished surfaces | |
| Measurements | Diameter38.5 mmThickness7.8 mmThickness including crystal9.85 mmLug-to-lug46 mm | |
| Dial | ||
| Material | In-house made domed copper-oxide patina dial | |
| Dial design | Expressive sunburst radiating from the Sub-Second Dial, titanium cantilevered hour markers | Azimuthal world map and 24 hour GMT layout with our Breguet-inspired numerals, titanium cantilevered hour markers filled with luminova |
| Hands | ||
| Material | Nickel plated base metal | |
| Shape | Signature shape hands with diamond tooled chamfers | Signature shape hands with diamond tooled chamfers and filled with luminova, contrasting brass GMT hand |
| Movement | ||
| Caliber | Sellita SW360 | Sellita SW330-2 |
| Finishing | Top grade featuring our own hand-carved and heat-treated rotor | |
| Strap | ||
| Material | Rooster feet leather cognac | Rooster feet leather burgundy |
| Buckle | Holthinrichs Titanium Grade 5 buckle and pin | |
| Availability | ||
| Leadtime | Delivery throughout summer 2026 | |
| Quantity | 100 pieces | 100 pieces |
Delivery throughout summer 2026, Limited 100 pieces each.
